Controversy over new Clio MakeUp-sponsored dye, but how much do we really know about hair dye?

A recent debate, born out of Clio Make Up’s Instagram feed, has raised a number of questions (and controversies) about hair color and how much we really know about it. Clarity is provided by science communicator Beatrice Mautino

In recent years, we often meet with hair dyes not only in the hair salon and in the supermarket, but also on social networks, where various influencers show how to use them and the results, which in some cases provokes a lot of comments and controversies.

These days @cliomakeup_official is releasing a video featuring a well-known beauty influencer advertises a new line of Garnier dyes. In fact, many users doubt that Clio could have achieved a similar result on her own, and instead assume that she went to a hairdresser.

This simple video is the perfect opportunity to bring consumers’ attention back to the science and chemistry behind hair color and how much we really know about it. INCI obsession and superficiality in ingredient analysis seem to be the order of the day.

At least that’s what a science communicator thinks Beatrice Mautino on Instagram explains what the dyes contain and how they work.

In the world of cosmetics, many people have now become experts in INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) analysis, carefully evaluating the ingredients present in hair products. We worry about the chemicals in them, obsess over ammonia and try to avoid any ingredients that may seem harmful to our hair or health. But How much do we really know about hair dye?

As the expert explains, the reality is that despite the variety of brands and products available in the market, the chemistry behind the dyes remains essentially the same. Permanent dyes, both those sold in supermarkets and those used in professional salons, share a basic chemical structure.

What do hair dyes contain and how do they work?

The expert explains to us what the basic components of hair colors are and what they are used for:

  • Ammonia: it is one of the most famous (and feared) ingredients in dyes. Its main function is to open the hair cuticle and allow other ingredients to penetrate inside.
  • Hydrogen peroxide: its presence is essential in hair bleaching and in the color development process. Hydrogen peroxide plays a key role in ensuring the paint sets properly.
  • Sour balm: this component is used to close the hair cuticle after the dyeing process. It serves to preserve the color and maintain the softness of the hair.

Ammonia problem

We often come across products that claim to be “no ammonia” and who instead useethanolamine. However, it is important to know that ethanolamine performs the same function as ammonia, but without its characteristic smell.

According to experts and science communicators, ammonia is more effective and generally less problematic than you might think. It is not known to cause allergies and does not pose a significant risk to pregnant women. In practice, the unpleasant smell seems to be the only weak point of this dye component.

Supermarket hair dyes versus hairdressers hair dyes

But finally, what are the differences between hair dyes from the supermarket and those from hairdressers?

Professional hair colors used in salons, although the basic chemistry is the same, have a number of advantages compared to the colors sold in supermarkets:

  • Wider color gamut: Hairstylists have access to a wide range of colors and can mix them to achieve customized results
  • Checking the concentration of hydrogen peroxide: They can adjust the amount of hydrogen peroxide used, which allows them to adjust the dye according to the customer’s needs

In conclusion, the choice to dye your hair at home or rely on a hairdresser depends on personal preferences and individual skills. It should be taken into account that the science behind this product is more complex than it seems at first glance and it is worth studying further to avoid hasty judgments and make more informed decisions in the care of our hair.

Irrespective even for hair care, it would be better to use products as natural as possible.

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